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Yves Saint Laurent Fashion Studio 54

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French manner designer (1936–2008)

Yves Saint-Laurent
Yves Saint Laurent (1958).png

Saint Laurent in 1958
Built-in

Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent


(1936-08-01)1 August 1936

Oran, French Algeria
Died 1 June 2008(2008-06-01) (aged 71)

Paris, France
Nationality French
Education Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture
Occupation Mode designer

Label(s)

 Yves Saint Laurent
Partner(s) Pierre Bergé

Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent (, besides , , French: [iv sɛ̃ lɔʁɑ̃]; 1 Baronial 1936 – 1 June 2008),[1] referred to as Yves Saint-Laurent or YSL, was a French style designer who, in 1962, founded his eponymous way characterization. He is regarded as being among the foremost fashion designers of the twentieth century.[2] In 1985, Caroline Milbank wrote, "The most consistently historic and influential designer of the by twenty-v years, Yves Saint Laurent can be credited with both spurring the couture's rise from its 1960s ashes and with finally rendering ready-to-wear reputable."[3] He developed his style to accommodate the changes in fashion during that period. He approached his aesthetic from a different perspective past helping women find confidence past looking both comfy and elegant at the same fourth dimension. He is also credited with having introduced the "Le Smoking" tuxedo suit for women and was known for his use of non-European cultural references and of various models.[four]

Early life [edit]

Saint Laurent was born on i Baronial 1936, in Oran, French Algeria,[five] [6] to French parents, Charles and Lucienne Andrée Mathieu-Saint-Laurent.[7] He grew up in a villa by the Mediterranean with his two younger sisters, Michèle and Brigitte.[7] Saint Laurent liked to create intricate paper dolls, and by his early teen years, he was designing dresses for his mother and sisters. At the age of 17, Saint Laurent moved to Paris and enrolled at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, where his designs quickly gained notice. Michel De Brunhoff, the editor of French Vogue, introduced Saint Laurent to designer Christian Dior, a giant in the fashion world. "Dior fascinated me," Saint Laurent later recalled. "I couldn't speak in front of him. He taught me the footing of my art. Whatever was to happen next, I never forgot the years I spent at his side." Under Dior'due south tutelage, Saint Laurent's style connected to mature and gain even more detect.[eight]

Personal life and career [edit]

Young designer [edit]

In 1953, Saint Laurent submitted 3 sketches to a contest for young fashion designers organized by the International Wool Secretariat. Saint Laurent won kickoff place. After, he was invited to attend the awards ceremony held in Paris in Dec of that same year.[9]

During his stay in Paris, Saint Laurent met Michel de Brunhoff (who was then editor-in-chief of the French edition of Faddy magazine and a connexion to his male parent). De Brunhoff, known by some as a considerate person who encouraged new talent, was impressed by the sketches that Saint Laurent brought with him and suggested he should intend to become a fashion designer. Saint Laurent would somewhen consider a grade of study at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, the council which regulates the haute couture industry and provides training to its employees. Saint Laurent followed his communication and, leaving Oran for Paris after graduation, began his studies at that place and eventually graduated as a star pupil. Later on, that same year, he entered the International Wool Secretariat contest again and won, beating out his friend Fernando Sánchez and young German pupil Karl Lagerfeld.[ten]

Shortly after his win, he brought a number of sketches to de Brunhoff who recognized close similarities to sketches he had been shown that morning past Christian Dior. Knowing that Dior had created the sketches that morn and that the young man could not have seen them, de Brunhoff sent him to Dior, who hired him on the spot.[eleven]

Although Dior recognised his talent immediately, Saint Laurent spent his first twelvemonth at the Business firm of Dior on mundane tasks, such equally decorating the studio and designing accessories. Eventually, all the same, he was allowed to submit sketches for the couture collection; with every passing season, more of his sketches were accepted by Dior. In Baronial 1957, Dior met with Saint Laurent's mother to tell her that he had chosen Saint Laurent to succeed him as a designer. His mother after said that she had been confused past the remark, as Dior was but 52 years old at the time. Both she and her son were surprised when in October of that year Dior died at a health spa in northern Italy of a massive eye attack.[10]

Yves Saint Laurent trapeze dress for Dior, 1958.

In 1957, Saint Laurent found himself at age 21 the head designer of the House of Dior. His spring 1958 collection nigh certainly saved the enterprise from financial ruin.[12] [xiii] The simple, flaring lines of his starting time drove for Dior,[xiv] called the Trapeze line,[15] [16] a variation of Dior's 1955 A-Line,[17] [eighteen] [19] catapulted him to international stardom. Dresses in the collection featured a narrow shoulder that flared gently to a hem that just covered the knee. At that time, he shortened his surname to Saint Laurent because the international printing found his hyphenated triple name difficult to express.[ citation needed ]

His fall 1958 collection was not greeted with the same level of approving equally his first collection and later collections for the Firm of Dior featuring hobble skirts and beatnik fashions were savaged by the press.[20]

In 1959, he was chosen by Farah Diba, who was a student in Paris, to design her wedding wearing apparel for her marriage to the Shah of Iran.[ citation needed ]

In 1960, Saint Laurent constitute himself conscripted to serve in the French Army during the Algerian State of war of Independence.[21] Alice Rawsthorn writes that there was speculation at the fourth dimension that Marcel Boussac, the owner of the House of Dior and a powerful printing baron, had put pressure on the government not to conscript Saint Laurent in 1958 and 1959, but later the disastrous 1958 season, reversed form and asked that the designer exist conscripted and so that he could exist replaced.[ citation needed ]

Conscription, affliction and independence [edit]

Dresses from the Mondrian collection, 1965

Examples of Saint Laurent's trend-setting Le Smoking evening trouser-suit for women.

A lady's trouser arrange by Yves Saint Laurent.

Saint Laurent was in the military machine for twenty days before the stress of hazing past fellow soldiers led to him being admitted to a military infirmary, where he received news that he had been fired from Dior. This exacerbated his condition, and he was transferred to Val-de-Grâce military hospital, where he was given large doses of sedatives and psychoactive drugs, and subjected to electroshock therapy.[22] Saint Laurent himself traced the origin of both his mental problems and his drug addictions to this time in hospital.[10]

Afterwards his release from the hospital in Nov 1960, Saint Laurent sued Dior for breach of contract and won. After a menses of convalescence, he and his partner, industrialist Pierre Bergé, started their own fashion firm Yves Saint Laurent YSL with funds from American millionaire J. Mack Robinson.[23] The couple split up romantically in 1976 but remained business partners.[24]

In the 1960s and 1970s, the firm popularized fashion trends such as the crackpot expect, safari jackets for men and women, tight trousers, tall, thigh-high boots, and arguably the most famous archetype tuxedo suit for women in 1966, Le Smoking. The 1965 Mondrian drove was particularly renowned, and his Russian peasant collections of the mid-1970s were also acclaimed.[25] [26] [27] Saint Laurent also started mainstreaming the idea of wearing silhouettes from the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s[ citation needed ] and is credited with initiating in 1978 the wide, shoulder-padded styles that would characterize the 1980s.[28] [29] Yves Saint Laurent brought in new changes to the fashion industry in the 60s and the 70s. The French designer opened his Pret-a-Porter House YSL Rive Gauche in 1967 where he was starting to shift his focus from Haute Couture to Ready-to-wearable. One of the purposes was to provide a wider range of fashionable styles being available to choose from in the marketplace equally they were affordable and cheaper.

He was the first French couturier to come out with a full prêt-à-porter (ready-to-habiliment) line, although Alicia Drake credits this move with Saint Laurent's wish to democratize fashion;[30] others[ who? ] point out that other couture houses were preparing prêt-à-porter lines at the same time – the House of Yves Saint Laurent only announced its line first. The outset of the company's Rive Gauche stores, which sold the prêt-à-porter line, opened on the rue de Tournon in the 6th arrondissement of Paris, on 26 September 1966. The first customer was Catherine Deneuve.[10] He ended up doing many costumes for her in films such as Heartbeat, Mississippi Mermaid, and Dearest to Eternity. [31]

Many of his collections were positively received by both his fans and the press, such as the autumn 1965 collection, which introduced Le Smoking tailored tuxedo arrange. Other collections raised controversy, such equally his spring 1971 collection, which was inspired by 1940s mode. Some felt it romanticized the German occupation of France during World War II, which he did not feel, while others felt it brought back the unattractive utilitarianism of the time. The French newspaper France Soir called the jump 1971 collection "Une grande farce!"[10] Aside from this drove, however, he came to exist considered during the 1970s the most prominent designer in the world, adapting his designs to modernistic women's needs.[32] [33]

During the 1960s and 1970s, Saint Laurent was considered one of Paris's "jet set up".[thirty] He was often seen at clubs in France and New York City, such as Regine'due south and Studio 54, and was known to be both a heavy drinker and a frequent user of cocaine.[x] When he was not actively supervising the preparation of a collection, he spent time at his villa in Marrakech, Morocco. In the tardily 1970s, he and Bergé bought a neo-gothic villa, Château Gabriel in Benerville-sur-Mer, virtually Deauville, France. Yves Saint Laurent was a smashing admirer of Marcel Proust who had been a frequent guest of Gaston Gallimard, one of the previous owners of the villa. When they bought Château Gabriel, Saint Laurent and Bergé deputed Jacques Grange to decorate it with themes inspired by Proust'southward Remembrance of Things Past.[34]

The prêt-à-porter line became extremely popular with the public if non with the critics and somewhen earned many times more for Saint Laurent and Bergé than the haute couture line. However, Saint Laurent, whose wellness had been precarious for years, became erratic under the pressure of designing two haute couture and two prêt-à-porter collections every year. He increasingly turned to booze and drugs.[35] At some shows, he could barely walk down the runway at the cease of the show, and he had to be supported by models.[36] [ citation needed ]

Post-obit his 1978 introduction of the large-shoulder-pad looks[37] that would dominate the 1980s, he relied on a restricted fix of styles based largely on big-shouldered jackets, narrow skirts, and pumps[38] [39] that didn't vary much during the decade,[40] [41] resulting in some fashion writers bemoaning the loss of his former inventiveness[42] [43] and others praising the familiarity.[44] [45] After a disastrous 1987 prêt-à-porter prove in New York City, which featured US$100,000 jeweled casual jackets just days after the "Black Mon" stock market crash, he turned over the responsibility of the prêt-à-porter line to his administration. Although the line remained popular with his fans, it was before long dismissed as "boring" by the press.[10]

Later life [edit]

A favorite among his female clientele, Saint Laurent had numerous muses that inspired his piece of work. Among them were: French model Victoire Doutreleau,[46] who opened his first manner bear witness in 1962;[47] Loulou de la Falaise,[46] [48] the daughter of a French marquis and an Anglo-Irish gaelic model, who became the jewelry designer for the make;[49] Betty Catroux,[46] [48] the one-half-Brazilian daughter of an American diplomat, who Saint Laurent considered his "twin sister";[50] French extra Catherine Deneuve;[46] [48] French model Danielle Luquet de Saint Germain,[51] who inspired the Le Smoking arrange;[52] Mounia,[46] [48] a model from Martinique who was the oftentimes-used bride at his fashion shows; Lucie de la Falaise,[53] a Welsh-French model and niece of Loulou, who was the helpmate in his fashion shows in 1990–1994; Jewelry designer Paloma Picasso;[46] [48] Dutch extra Talitha Getty;[54] [55] American socialite Nan Kempner,[56] [57] who was named ambassador for the brand;[58] Italian model Marina Schiano,[46] [48] who managed the YSL boutiques in North America; French model Nicole Dorier,[59] who became the director of his runway shows,[60] and afterwards, the "retention" of his house when it became a museum; and French model Laetitia Casta,[61] who was the bride in his fashion shows in 1998–2001.[62]

In 1983, Saint Laurent became the first living fashion designer to be honored past the Metropolitan Museum of Art with a solo exhibition. In 2001, he was awarded the rank of Commander of the Légion d'Honneur by French President Jacques Chirac. Saint Laurent retired in 2002 and became increasingly reclusive, living at his homes in Normandy and Morocco with his pet French Bulldog Moujik.[ commendation needed ] In 2007, he was awarded the rank of One thousand officier de la Légion d'honneur by French President Nicolas Sarkozy.[63] [64] He as well created a foundation with Bergé in Paris to trace the history of the house of YSL, complete with fifteen,000 objects and 5,000 pieces of vesture.[65]

Expiry [edit]

Saint Laurent died on 1 June 2008 of brain cancer at his residence in Paris.[66] According to The New York Times,[67] a few days prior, he and Bergé had been joined in a same-sex civil union known as a Pacte civil de solidarité (PACS) in France. When Saint Laurent was diagnosed every bit final, with only one or two weeks left to live, Bergé and the doctor mutually decided that it would be better for him non to know of his impending death. Bergé said, "I have the belief that Yves would not have been strong enough to accept that."[68]

He was given a Catholic funeral at Église Saint-Roch in Paris.[69] The funeral attendees included the old Empress of Iran Farah Pahlavi, Bernadette Chirac, Catherine Deneuve, and President Nicolas Sarkozy and his wife, Carla Bruni.[lxx]

His body was cremated and his ashes were scattered in Marrakech, Morocco, in the Majorelle Garden, a residence and botanical garden that he owned with Bergé since 1980 and ofttimes visited to find inspiration and refuge.[71] Bergé said at the funeral service (in French): "Merely I also know that I will never forget what I owe you and that one solar day I will join you under the Moroccan palms."

Legacy [edit]

In February 2009, an sale of 733 items was held by Christie'south at the Grand Palais, ranging from paintings by Picasso to ancient Egyptian sculptures. Saint Laurent and Bergé began collecting art in the 1950s; before the auction, Bergé commented that the decision to sell the drove was taken because, without Saint Laurent, "information technology has lost the greater office of its significance", with the proceeds proposed for the creation of a new foundation for AIDS research.[ commendation needed ]

Before the auction commenced, the Chinese government tried to stop the sale of ii of twelve bronze statue heads taken from the Old Summer Palace in Prc during the 2nd Opium State of war. A French judge dismissed the merits and the sculptures, heads of a rabbit and a rat, sold for €xv,745,000.[72] However, the bearding heir-apparent revealed himself to be Cai Mingchao, a representative of the Communist china's National Treasures Fund, and claimed that he would not pay for them on "moral and patriotic grounds".[73] The heads remained in Bergé's possession[74] until acquired by François Pinault, owner of many luxury brands including Yves Saint Laurent. He so donated them to Red china in a ceremony on 29 June 2013.[75]

On the first 24-hour interval of the sale, Henri Matisse's painting Les coucous, tapis bleu et rose broke the previous globe record fix in 2007 for a Matisse work and sold for 32 million euros. The record-breaking sale realized 342.5 million euros (£307 million).[76] The subsequent auction, 17–xx Nov, included 1,185 items from the couple'south Normandy villa and while not as impressive as the beginning auction, featured the designer's last Mercedes-Benz auto and his Hermès baggage.[77]

Forbes rated Saint Laurent the top-earning dead celebrity in 2009.[78]

In popular civilization [edit]

On film [edit]

  • 2002: David Teboul'south Yves Saint Laurent: His Life and Times [79]
  • 2002: Yves Saint Laurent: v Avenue Marceau 75116 Paris [80]
  • 2009: Pierre Thoretton'due south L'Amour Fou [81]
  • 2014: Yves Saint Laurent [82]
  • 2014: Saint Laurent [83]

Television [edit]

  • 1965: Appeared on 25 October as a "mystery guest" on the American tv set game bear witness What'due south My Line? [84]

Books [edit]

  • 2014: Yves Saint Laurent: A Moroccan Passion, Pierre Bergé, illustrated past Lawrence Mynott, Abrams, ISBN 978-1419713491[85]
  • 2017: Dior by YSL, Laurence Benaïm, photography past Laziz Hamani, Assouline, ISBN 9781614285991[86]
  • 2020: Yves Saint Laurent: The Impossible Collection, Laurence Benaïm, Assouline, ISBN 9781614289425[87]

See also [edit]

  • BathingSuit1920s.jpg Mode portal

References [edit]

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  14. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1958". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 254. ISBN0-670-80172-0. The apparel sloped down from the shoulders to a widened hem just below the human knee, maintaining a definite geometric line through precise tailoring.
  15. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1958". In Faddy: Lx Years of Celebrities and Way from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. pp. 246, 247. ISBN0-14-00-4955-Ten. Saint Laurent'southward [T]rapeze line, backbone of his successful offset collection for Dior.
  16. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1958". Vogue History of 20th Century Manner. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Grouping. p. 254. ISBN0-670-80172-0. Saint Laurent's showtime drove introduced a new silhouette, the wedge-shaped 'Trapeze'...
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  18. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1955". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Manner from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 239. ISBN0-14-00-4955-X. Dior produces his new A line, a triangle widened from a pocket-sized head and shoulders to a full pleated or stiffened hem.
  19. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1955". Vogue History of 20th Century Style. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 230. ISBN0-670-80172-0. Dior's...'A' line consisted of coats, suits and dresses flared out into wide triangles from narrow shoulders. The waistline was the cross bar of the A and could be positioned either under the bust in an Empire manner or low down on the hips.
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Further reading [edit]

  • Bergé, Pierre (1997). Yves Saint Laurent: The Universe of Style. Rizzoli. ISBN 0-7893-0067-2.
  • Milbank, Caroline Rennolds (1985). Couture: The Not bad Fashion Designers. Thames & Hudson.
  • Rawsthorn, Alice (1996). Yves Saint Laurent: A Biography. Nan A. Talese/Doubleday. ISBN 0-385-47645-0.

External links [edit]

  • ysl.com, official Yves Saint Laurent (brand) website
  • Trapèze dresses at Digital Collections at Chicago History Museum
  • "Yves Saint Laurent, legendary designer and Pied Piper of fashion, dies anile 71", The Guardian: retrospective article
  • "Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies". Victoria and Albert Museum. 29 July 2015.
  • Biography of Yves Saint Laurent
  • Yves Saint Laurent Biography
  • "Yves Saint Laurent shuts its doors" – BBC World 31 Oct 2002
  • "All About Yves" – Jim Lehrer 16 Jan 2002 By Jessica Moore
  • "Yves Saint Laurent announces retirement" – CNN 7 January 2002
  • "All Near Yves: Every bit the incomparable Yves Saint Laurent celebrates his 40th anniversary equally a couturier, the world salutes his genius." – Julie K.50. Dam, Fourth dimension mag, iii August 1998.

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